DIY M7195 SWEATER + PATTERN REVIEW

DIY M7195 SWEATER + PATTERN REVIEW

Me & My Bright Ideas…

Every now and then I set out to work on what I think will be such an easy project and then… stuff just goes completely HAYWIRE.

[enter] The Labor of Love Project!

So, some time ago, I asked my friends on Instagram/Facebook what project from a then-recent pattern haul should be my next project and as a part of the feedback I got, I started to work on a sweater using McCall’s Pattern M7195.

M7195 pattern

SHOP – McCall’s Pattern M7195

M7195 rating

There are just a few pattern pieces and this seems easy enough to whip up really quickly!

Instead of making the obvious decision to purchase sweater fabric, I chose to look in my stash for some coordinating fabrics that I thought would make this thing pop!  And…. it begins.

Pattern Details

Pattern:  View D, cut size Small

M7195

Completed M7195

Fabric:

  1. Bodice Front/Back – Rayon/spandex blend (4-way stretch ITY knit) from Fabric Mart.  This particular color is no longer available, but you can find similar knits HERE.
  2. Sleeves – Double Weave Moire Suiting, also from Fabric Mart.
  3. Cuffs & Neckband – Rayon/Poly blend from Hancock, similar HERE.

Alterations Made

To add some…. umph, I decided to add a band connecting the neckline to the cap of the sleeve, using the same rayon/poly blend from the cuffs.

M7195

[Insert] Shoulder Band

The measurements for this band were a very simple 3 x 5.5 inches.

M7195

[Insert] Shoulder Band

I usually get pretty decent design ideas in the middle of the night and I can’t sleep of do much of anything else until I make my vision happen…

The Issues

Aside from my machine making this irritating rattling sound after breaking numerous needles, one after another, the new band came out a little awkward.  Maybe it’s my broad shoulders.  Or maybe I chose too much of a contrasting color?  I really liked the sleeves.  They came together really well.  I’ve learned to embrace the good details of some good hand-stitching!  No matter how much my fingers are hurt afterwards 🙂

M7195

Initial neckband ‘puckering’ – this was corrected!

Sidenote:  Commercial patterns often do not tell you how to hide your seams, so you’re left with annoying seams inside your clothes.

waistband error

DON’T:  Match right sides of your bodice together and place your waistband in the middle of the hemline of your bodice/lining pieces.

To hide your seams, follow these simply steps!

  1. Press the cuff in half, before attaching it to your sleeve.
  2. After attaching one side of the cuff to your sleeve, turn in the other side of the cuff the same length as your seam allowance (standard measurement is 5/8′).
  3. Slipstitch your this side of your cuff to your sleeve.

DO:  Match the right sides of your bodice/lining together + match the right side of ONE side of your waistband to the right side of your bodice together.  Sew.  (You can sew separately too!)

M7195 waistbad

The inside of the waistband – handstitched/slip stitched

M7195

Wristband – slipstitched results

M7195

Completed Should Band with ‘Puckering’

Conclusion:

Overall Opinion:  This is a very simple pattern.  I genuinely think this is a nice pattern for someone looking to make something with little time investment.

Will I recommend this to others?  Yes.

Will I make this pattern again?  Honestly?  I may adjust this one to see if I feel differently.  Or, I may just let it go…. I hate to waste all of this work though.

Things I Liked?  The outcome of the slipstitching = waistband, wristbands.  I think hand sewing doesn’t really get that much attention, but this actually gets the best results!

Things I Didn’t Like?  My stretchy fabric.  Betsy is pretty sick is stretchy fabric.  She throws an absolute FIT whenever I just so happen to use it.  She breaks needles.  She makes crazy noises.  She just doesn’t like it…

I also wasn’t a fan of the neckband fit.  I’m not sure if it’s my box-shaped shoulders or what, but this neckline does me NO favors!!

Lastly, I’m no fan of darts if there’s a looser fit is.  I think darts are more for a fitted look and this particular pattern is not deserving of them.

Final Thoughts:  I’ve come to the conclusion that Vogue Patterns is my drug of choice the right pattern fit for me.  I love the general style of the patterns, the fit and I only need to adjust the bodice with minimal effort.

Am I impatient?  Very.

Should I work on this?  Sure! 🙂

Maybe I’ll make this a goal to work towards for 2016 – to take my time, make muslins to get the right fit and to learn my true measurements/alterations.

What about you?

Have you tried a pattern that you thought was a for sure WIN and came out to be a bit disappointed with the results?

Or are you at a place where you’re developing your list of things to accomplish in 2016?

Tell me about it!! I’d love to hear from you in the comments below!

Until next time,

XOXO 🙂

Follow:

7 Comments

  1. December 17, 2015 / 1:22 PM

    While I’m a firm believer in breaking all the rules, I do pay attention to the recommended fabrics to see what would compliment that fabric on pattern envelopes. That would maybe help the sizing issue here. The biggest thing I would say with your machine and stretchy fabric is use the proper stretch needles, change your needles often, and adjust the tension accordingly. Also, tear off a small amount of pattern tissue and put that between your fabric and the machine. That will keep your machine from “eating” your fabric. The tissue tears away easily, and it’s such a great help. As for the seams, serge or zig-zag the edges and if you don’t have a serger you can trim away the excess as long as you zig-zag stitch or do a double row of stitching in the seams. Let me know if you have any questions, or email me if you want some additional help. Hope I’m helping and not telling you things you already know! lol http://sewsincity.com

    • afashionaddict
      December 18, 2015 / 12:47 PM

      Hi Taylor – thanks so much for commenting and leaving some suggestions!

      I do have serger and have been having issues with it lately 🙁 I am very familiar with the good ole zig-zag stitch as well.

      I do typically used the suggested fabrics, but sometimes I like to switch it up and… I also like to show some not-so-seasoned seamstresses that you do run into these types of issues when garment making.

      As for the sizing, I’ve actually experienced this fitting issue with other McCall patterns (unblogged). I’ll definitely take more time on making a muslin if/when trying another of their pattern that I like – especially for the bodice!

  2. December 18, 2015 / 3:38 PM

    I use a tear away stabilizer, or just some printer paper to put under my fabric to start off the stitching. If it’s a jersey, super stretchy/slinky fabric, I use my walking foot. Often time in the patterns, the sleeve cap was too much room in it, which can lead to the dreaded puckering. I’ve shaved off about 1/4″ on just the sleeve cap and it’s fit perfectly. Trying to ease in extra in stretch fabric will always come on a bit wonky.

    And I did a Simplicity pattern very similar to this one, it was a sweatshirt. I got all the way to the end of it and couldn’t get it over my head. Omg I was so pissed. So, yes I get it!

    StyleSewMe.com

  3. December 18, 2015 / 3:41 PM

    Oh, I just realized this was meant for a woven fabric. Yeah, going from a design intended for non-stretch to a 4 way stretch will definitely skew things.

    • afashionaddict
      December 18, 2015 / 4:01 PM

      Yep!! I’m pretty sure I just started grabbing fabric without looking back at the pattern instructions. Smh…

      This was a classic case of “everything that could go wrong did” but I think some details actually came out well, despite the minor damages 😉

      Thanks, Eryn, for your tips as well! I’ll try either some scrap tissue or some stabilizer the next time I venture to a 4-way stretch (avoiding it at all costs!!) :p

  4. myla
    January 14, 2016 / 6:33 PM

    Sounds like we hsve the same goals for 2016. Practice makes perfect …..im hoping 🙂
    Keep up the good work, I enjoy seeing your work.

    • afashionaddict
      January 14, 2016 / 8:36 PM

      Myla,
      That means so much to me, thank you!

      I’m definitely hoping for some great progress this year. If I can, I know you will too 🙂

      Thanks so much for taking the time to leave me your thoughts!

      Xoxo,
      Nikki

Leave a Reply